How to Read a Turkish Menu

Updated

Turkish menus are long, and the part that costs visitors the most is the part that arrives before the menu does. A waiter appears with a tray of cold dishes, you point at what looks good, and only later do you learn that every plate on that tray was priced individually. The rest of the menu is straightforward once you know that kebap is a family of very different dishes rather than a single one, and that the question about your coffee has four acceptable answers.

How a Turkish menu is organized

A Turkish meal moves from cold to hot to grilled, with soup available at any point in the day. The headings below appear in roughly this order on almost every menu.

Turkish Pronunciation What it means
Kahvaltı kah-val-TUH Breakfast, served late into the morning
Çorbalar chor-ba-LAR Soups, eaten at any hour
Soğuk mezeler so-OOK me-ze-LER Cold meze, brought on a tray to choose from
Ara sıcaklar a-RA suh-jak-LAR Hot starters, between meze and main
Salatalar sa-la-ta-LAR Salads
Izgara / Kebaplar uz-ga-RA Grilled meats and the kebap family
Pideler pee-de-LER Boat-shaped baked flatbreads with toppings
Ana yemekler a-NA yem-ek-LER Main courses, including stews
Zeytinyağlılar zey-tin-ya-luh-LAR Vegetables cooked in olive oil, served cold
Tatlılar tat-luh-LAR Desserts
İçecekler ee-che-jek-LER Drinks

Meze is the section to watch. In a meyhane or a fish restaurant, a waiter brings a tray or wheels a trolley of small cold dishes to your table and you choose by pointing. It feels like a complimentary selection. It is not: each dish you keep is charged, and a table that says yes to everything has ordered a substantial and expensive meal before the grill has been lit. Take three or four, ask the price of anything you do not recognize, and send the rest of the tray away without embarrassment. Bread arrives free and is refilled.

Where you eat sets the format. An ocakbaşı is a grill house where meat is cooked over charcoal, sometimes at a pit in the middle of your table, and it is where the kebap list is longest. A lokanta is an everyday canteen with trays of home-style stews behind glass, priced per portion, ideal for lunch and for pointing at what you want. A meyhane is a tavern built around meze, raki and a long evening. A kebapçı, pideci or kokoreççi does one thing and does it all day. A pastane sells pastries and desserts and is not a restaurant.

Common dishes you'll see on the menu

Turkish Pronunciation English Notes
mercimek çorbası mer-jee-MEK chor-ba-SUH Red lentil soup The national default, eaten at breakfast too
ezogelin çorbası e-zo-ge-LEEN Lentil and bulgur soup Slightly spicier than mercimek
işkembe çorbası ish-kem-BEH Tripe soup Eaten late at night, famously restorative
haydari hay-da-RUH Thick strained yogurt with garlic Standard cold meze
acılı ezme a-juh-LUH ez-MEH Spicy chopped tomato and pepper paste The hot one on the meze tray
patlıcan salatası pat-luh-JAN Smoked aubergine puree Cold, smoky, with yogurt or oil
sigara böreği see-ga-RA bu-re-EE Fried cheese-filled pastry rolls Hot starter, always ordered
dolma dol-MA Stuffed vine leaves or peppers Cold with rice, or hot with meat
zeytinyağlı fasulye zey-tin-ya-LUH Green beans in olive oil Served at room temperature
çoban salatası cho-BAN Chopped tomato and cucumber salad Shepherd's salad, on every table
döner kebap du-NER Meat stacked and shaved from a vertical spit Served in bread, on rice or on a plate
adana kebap a-da-NA Hand-minced lamb on a flat skewer The spicy one
urfa kebap ur-FA The same skewer without chilli The mild counterpart to adana
şiş kebap SHEESH Cubes of grilled lamb or chicken The plainest of the family
iskender kebap is-ken-DER Döner over bread with tomato and butter Rich; served with yogurt
cağ kebabı JA ke-ba-buh Horizontally spit-roasted lamb From Erzurum, ordered by the skewer
beyti bey-TEE Minced meat wrapped in flatbread Sliced into rounds, with yogurt
köfte kuf-TEH Grilled meatballs Regional recipes vary widely
lahmacun lah-ma-JOON Thin flatbread with minced meat Squeeze lemon, add greens, roll it up
pide PEE-deh Boat-shaped baked flatbread Named for the topping: kaşarlı, kıymalı, sucuklu
kumpir koom-PEER Loaded baked potato Street food, heavily customized
menemen me-ne-MEN Eggs scrambled with tomato and pepper Breakfast staple, served in the pan
börek bu-REK Layered filled pastry Cheese, spinach or minced meat
simit see-MEET Sesame bread ring Sold from carts all morning
manti man-TUH Tiny dumplings in garlic yogurt Topped with melted butter and mint
kuru fasulye koo-ROO fa-sool-YEH White bean stew Ordered with rice; classic lokanta lunch
karnıyarık kar-nuh-ya-RUK Aubergine stuffed with minced meat Home-style main
balık ekmek ba-LUK ek-MEK Grilled fish in bread Waterfront staple in Istanbul
baklava bak-la-VA Layered pastry with nuts and syrup Pistachio or walnut, sold by weight
künefe ku-ne-FEH Shredded pastry with melted cheese Served hot, eaten immediately
sütlaç soot-LACH Baked rice pudding The lighter dessert option
dondurma don-dur-MA Stretchy Turkish ice cream Sold with a certain amount of theatre

Words that repeat: et (meat), tavuk (chicken), kuzu (lamb), balık (fish), peynir (cheese), ekmek (bread), pilav (rice), acı (spicy), ızgara (grilled), fırında (baked), kızartma (fried), yoğurtlu (with yogurt), tam porsiyon (full portion), yarım porsiyon (half portion).

Two things worth ordering deliberately. Kahvaltı, Turkish breakfast, is not a plate but a whole table of cheeses, olives, tomato, cucumber, jams, honey, eggs and bread, usually priced per person and served until midday or later. And Türk kahvesi, Turkish coffee, is sweetened during brewing, so the waiter will ask how you want it before it is made. The four answers are sade (no sugar), az şekerli (a little), orta (medium) and şekerli (sweet). There is no adding sugar afterwards, which is why the question is not optional.

Useful phrases for ordering

Turkish Pronunciation Meaning
Merhaba mer-ha-BA Hello
Menü, lütfen me-NU loot-FEN The menu, please
Ne tavsiye edersiniz? ne tav-see-YEH What do you recommend?
Bu ne kadar? boo ne ka-DAR How much is this?
Bunu istiyorum boo-NOO is-tee-yo-ROOM I would like this one
Acı değil, lütfen a-JUH de-EEL Not spicy, please
Etsiz olsun et-SEEZ ol-SOON Without meat
Yarım porsiyon ya-RUM por-see-YON A half portion
Bir çay daha beer CHAI da-HA One more tea
Orta, lütfen or-TA Medium sweet, please (for coffee)
Hesap, lütfen he-SAP The bill, please
Çok lezzetliydi chok lez-zet-lee-DEE That was delicious

Prices, paying and tipping

Prices on the menu include tax. Bread is free and brought without asking, and water is sold in bottles. Çay, black tea served in small tulip glasses, is cheap, poured all day and frequently offered on the house at the end of a meal or in a shop; accepting is polite and refusing is fine.

Meze is the one place where the bill can outrun expectations, because plates are counted individually and a tray-side yes is an order. Grilled meat and whole fish are sometimes priced by weight, which the menu shows next to the dish, and the final figure depends on the piece you are given, so it is reasonable to ask what a portion will weigh before agreeing.

Tipping is customary at around five to ten percent in sit-down restaurants, left in cash on the table even when you pay the rest by card. Fast, counter-service places and street stalls do not expect a tip. A service charge is occasionally added at tourist-facing restaurants, in which case there is no need to add more.

One warning specific to the busiest tourist streets: touts standing outside with laminated photo menus, and places that seat you first and produce the price later, are worth walking past. Restaurants that display prices clearly and are full of locals almost never operate that way.

Etiquette worth knowing

  • Meals are shared. Meze, salads and pide are placed in the middle and everyone reaches in, so ordering strictly one dish per person leaves the table looking odd.
  • Insisting on paying is part of the ritual. If a Turkish host or new acquaintance reaches for the bill, expect a real argument about it and expect to lose.
  • Tea is a social obligation more than a drink. If a shopkeeper or restaurant owner offers you çay after a meal, sitting down for five minutes is the polite response.
  • Turkish coffee is drunk slowly and never stirred at the end; the grounds settle in the bottom of the cup and are left there.
  • During Ramadan, many restaurants stay open all day in tourist areas but fill instantly at sunset. Book, or eat well before.

When the menu has no English at all

Away from the main tourist strips, the menu is a laminated Turkish list, or a handwritten board of the day's stews, or a glass counter at a lokanta with twenty unlabeled trays behind it. The food there is better and cheaper than anything on a photo menu, and none of it is captioned in English. Reading a translated version of that board before you point is what lets you order the aubergine stew the kitchen has been simmering since morning instead of the one word on the wall you happened to recognize.

FAQ

Is the meze tray free? No. The tray is brought to your table so you can choose by sight, but every dish you keep is charged separately. Take a few, ask prices for anything unfamiliar, and let the rest go back.

What is the difference between adana and urfa kebap? Only the chilli. Both are hand-minced lamb pressed onto a flat skewer and grilled over charcoal. Adana is spicy, urfa is the mild version of the same dish.

How do I order Turkish coffee? State the sweetness when you order, because the sugar goes in during brewing. Say sade for none, az şekerli for a little, orta for medium or şekerli for sweet. Medium is the safest choice if you are unsure.