What Is Pho? Vietnam's Noodle Soup Explained

Updated

Pho (phở) is a Vietnamese soup of flat rice noodles in a clear broth simmered for hours with beef or chicken bones, charred ginger and onion, and whole spices such as star anise and cassia. It is served with herbs and a wedge of lime. The name is one syllable, pronounced close to "fuh" with a falling-then-rising tone — not "foe" and not "faux".

The main types

The first split is the protein. Phở bò is beef, the original and still the default. Phở gà is chicken, lighter and cleaner, and in Hanoi it is a genuine peer rather than a fallback.

The second split is regional, and it changes the whole bowl.

Northern (Hanoi) Southern (Saigon)
Broth Clear, salty, bone-forward Slightly sweet, rock sugar in the pot
Noodles Wider, softer Thinner
On the table Spring onion, chilli, vinegar-soaked garlic A plate of herbs, bean sprouts, lime, chilli
Sauces Rarely used Hoisin and sriracha, often mixed in a side dish
Style Restrained, one clear flavour Layered, adjust it yourself

Within beef pho, the cut is the third choice, and it is what you actually say at the counter.

Vietnamese Roughly What you get
phở tái tai Rare beef, sliced thin and cooked by the broth as it is poured
phở chín chin Well-done brisket, simmered in the pot
phở gầu gow Fatty brisket, richer
phở nạm nam Lean flank
phở gân gun Tendon, gelatinous
phở đặc biệt dac biet Special — a bit of everything in one bowl

How to order it

Most street shops sell one thing, so ordering is a matter of naming the cut and holding up fingers for the count. These are the words that do the work.

Vietnamese Sounds like Meaning
phở bò fuh baw Beef pho
phở gà fuh gah Chicken pho
tái tie Rare beef
chín chin Well-done brisket
gầu gow Fatty brisket
nạm nam Lean flank
tái chín tie chin Both, the most common order
không hành khong hahn No spring onion
thêm bánh tem bahn Extra noodles
thêm nước tem nook Extra broth
ít béo it beo Less fat
mang về mang ve To take away

What goes on top and when to add it

In Hanoi, very little arrives with the bowl: chopped spring onion and coriander already in the soup, and on the table a dish of sliced chilli, a jar of garlic in vinegar, and sometimes quartered lime. That is deliberate. The broth is the dish and the kitchen has already seasoned it.

In Ho Chi Minh City you get a side plate — rau thơm — piled with Thai basil, bean sprouts, culantro, lime and sliced chilli, plus bottles of hoisin and chilli sauce. Locals tear the basil in, drop the sprouts in a handful at a time so they stay crisp, and squeeze the lime last.

The rule either way: taste the broth first, plain, before you add anything. That is what you came for, and it tells you whether the bowl needs lime, chilli, both or nothing. If you want hoisin, put it in the small side dish and dip the meat rather than squeezing it into the soup, which muddies a broth someone spent the night making.

When and where to eat it

Pho is a breakfast food in Vietnam. Shops open early, the pot that has been simmering overnight is at its best in the first hours, and the good ones sell out and close by late morning or lunchtime. Arriving at eight in the evening looking for the famous bowl you read about usually means finding a shuttered doorway.

Two kinds of shop exist. The street shop is a doorway, a bubbling cauldron at the front, low plastic stools on the pavement and a menu of two or three lines. The air-conditioned restaurant has an actual table, an English menu and a higher price for a bowl that is often no better. The stool shops are where the cooking is, and turnover is so fast that the food is fresher, not riskier.

How it differs from other Vietnamese noodle soups

  • Bún bò Huế — round rice noodles, beef and pork, lemongrass and chilli. Spicy where pho is mild, and from central Vietnam.
  • Bún chả — not a soup. Grilled pork patties in a bowl of sweet fish-sauce broth that you dip cold noodles into. A Hanoi lunch.
  • Hủ tiếu — southern, often clear pork broth, and the noodles can be chewy tapioca strands. Frequently served dry with the broth on the side.
  • Mì Quảng — central, turmeric-yellow wheat noodles with barely any broth, topped with peanuts and a shard of rice cracker.
  • Bánh canh — thick, slippery tapioca noodles in a heavier soup.

They all get called "noodle soup" in translation, which hides the differences that matter. Small shops rarely have an English board at all — just a hand-painted sign with one dish name and a price, which is exactly the information you need and exactly what you cannot read. A photo translation of that sign, before you sit down, tells you whether you have found the beef pho you were looking for or the lemongrass soup next door.